Winter Break, Afterwards, and Now

2010.01.26 21:11:47

Listening to: Monsters of Folk

From the Life Department

Over winter break this year, I decided to continue the tradition I started last year and have another iconoclastic climbing Christmas. Last year, I went on a vision quest on my own to Texas, did some climbing in Hueco and a fair bit of exploring. This year, Becky and I made the trip southwest to Red Rocks, just outside of Las Vegas. Then, we headed west, hit I-5 and went north to Seattle for her friend Mick's wedding. Afterward, we completed the circuit via the normal too-much-of-I-84 route, back in Colorado in time for New Years. Along the way we had a lot of fun, some great experiences, fantastic food, and got about 4 days of good climbing in. Here are some highlights:

• Utah: Drive all night, camp in a frigid parking lot, and wake to watch the sunrise at Bryce canyon's sunrise overlook.Cycle the scenic road in Zion national park.
• Nevada: Two days of good sport climbing in Red Rocks (lead my first 11d and a handful of other proud climbs), two rainy and windy off-days of absurdity in Las Vegas, two more days climbing. Wild-turkey + Soy Nog = yes.
• California: Drive all night to get to San Francisco for breakfast pastries at Tartine, followed by a walk on the pier, a great bloody mary at Zeitgeist, life-changing al pastor mission-style burrito, cask ales at Magnolia, and a good cup of joe. (Fantastic recommendations ala Ms. E and Mr. R).
• Oregon: Drive all night and some of the next day to get to Portland. Powells and Abyss at Deschutes. Voodoo doughnuts, Spella and Stumptown coffee, lunch at Jake's with Mom, beer at Katie-O's with Ryan, Sassy's, the Lucky Lab and Roots with James. Sleep in Laurelhurst park, take a run on the waterfront, skip town.
• Washington: Seattle. The Green Tortoise hostel. Fremont, the troll, a good sandwich with BYO baguette, copious amounts of free chocolate and strong belgian beers. Art park, bubble gum wall. More strong beers at Pike brewing and fancy food elsewhere. People getting married while I drink too much Maker's and pretend I can dance. A solid BBQ sandwich and a good cup of coffee.

On the drive back, we tried to eat only coffee and pie in small diners in small towns. We ultimately gave up and ate real food in Wyoming. This "real" food would ultimately give me terrible awful food poisoning which kept me miserable for New years day and a couple after. Photos from the trip are on Flickr. I'm going through a bit of a photography burnout, so there aren't many, but the ones that are there are decent.

Since returning, I've settled back into my life in Boulder. This semester, I'm teaching a class (CSCI4113 - Unix System Administration). It's the first class I've taught, so I'm excited about it and so far am enjoying it. Although, it is a tremendous amount of work. Meanwhile, I'm a teaching assistant for a second class and am trying to squeeze in research where I can. Right now, all my research cycles and then some are getting spent on a paper I'm helping Eric with. I'm unsure whether we'll make our deadline, but I think the results and contribution are exciting no matter where they end up. I just learned today that Eric and I got a paper into TridentCom 2010. Still waiting to hear about a handful of other papers in submission. My own research is partly blocked on fellowship and grant applications, but I'm chipping away at it anyhow.

A piece of on-the-side research I did that involves using chaotic mathematics to assist in setting climbing routes has found it's way into this month's Climbing Magazine (no. 282), which is quite exciting. I've also published a tech. report about that work and have developed a website around it. I'm not sure what will become of it, but I'm pretty stoked on writing an article for Climbing, no matter how esoteric the subject.

In the month or two prior to leaving for Nevada, I dedicated myself to training, focused on climbing hard in Red Rocks. I've cut a fair amount of weight (down to 150 and change), am running my fastest (beat my PR for 5K in the Colder Bolder by almost 2 minutes), climbing my hardest, cycling my furthest (60 miles per week when the weather cooperates), and fighting my strongest (rolling jiu-jitsu when I can). I was pretty happy with my performance in Red Rocks. I had wanted to lead (however dirty) a 12a. I didn't do that, but I made a solid (if freaked out) lead of a 11d. The 12s will come. The busyness of the new semester has cut into my training regimen some, but I'm still training as much as possible when I have free time. Trying to get folks together for impromptu jiu-jitsu sessions, started playing on an intramural basketball team, climbing, running, and cycling periodically. My next training goal will probably be a trip to Shelf Road in the spring.

Link | Comments

Posted By Caleb Phillips

Heptfecta of Radness

2009.11.08 15:09:24

Listening to: Otis Redding

From the Life Department

A handful of months ago, I was feeling stressed out and overworked. I decided I needed a vacation of sorts to keep my sanity. Without much time to spare, I came up with a plan for half a day that involved 5 of my favorite things in the world. I called it the "Quinfecta of Radness". The idea was to start at the Boulder Farmers' market in the morning for a breakfast of (1) Tamales and (2) Coffee, then I'd ride my (3) Bike up the NCAR mesa to set off on a hike of Bear (4) Mountain after which, I'd have a frosty (5) beer at the Southern Sun. Since the original incarnation, I've done it maybe 3 or 4 times, and it's grown to a Heptfecta, adding (6) Friends and (7) Nachos. With unseasonably good weather and a half-day of slack, I did it yesterday too, and took some pictures, which I formed into a collage to pictorally describe the event to the uninitiated:



When I have a good amount of lead-time on one, I'll invite a few folks and sometimes people will join me for a partial subset of the heptfecta. But really, I intend it to be at least somewhat of a solo undertaking - quality time with myself and my favorite things. And that's all I have to say about that.

Link | Comments

Posted By Caleb Phillips

The Tale of Five Cookies

2009.10.15 15:57:48

Listening to: Bela Karoli

From the Food Department

Last week, I angered a statistician here at CU by suggesting that a parametric test, specifically the F-test, could be used to analyze Likert scale data which I presumed was interval scale. To atone, I offered to bake up some cookies, at which point I was met with another dropped gauntlet. This time a cookie-off. Statisticians are feisty fellows, it turns out. Well, I'm pretty competitive, so I took the challenge seriously. This week, I have baked 6 batches of cookies, using my friends and colleagues as a test-kitchen of sorts. Today, I'll submit my final cookie to the judges (two professors who volunteered for the job). It is a good cookie. One, I think, that balances creativity and novelty with simplicity. Here are the 5 cookie recipes, along with a general theory of chocolate-chip-style cookie construction:

One Cookie Base to Rule Them All:

• 1 cup flour (APF)
• 1/2 cup brown sugar
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1/4 cup softened butter
• 1/4 cup vegetable shortening
• 1/2 tsp baking soda
• 1/2 tsp cider vinegar
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• 1/4 tsp salt

To make the base, first cream the fat and sugar. Then add the wet ingredients to that and beat into smooth, consistent, fluffy goodness. Add that mixture to the dry ingredients (sift them, if you're an asshole).Then, you can go ahead and add the flavorings, nuts, and other goodness according to the cookie you're going for...

1. Salty-Sweet Toffee Pecan

• 2/3 cup toasted pecans.
• 2/3 cup toffee chunks (or sub. butterscotch chips)
• 1/4 tsp additional vanilla extract
• 1/6 cup sugar and 1/2 tsp table salt (not coarse) mixed, which you'll lightly roll the cookies in prior to baking.

To toast the pecans, after shelling them (oh, yours aren't in the shell? well, that's stupid), spread them on a sheet pan and bake for 9 mins give or take at 350F. The salt-sugar coating should be pretty straight forward. I'd also suggest cutting the sugar in the base to 1/3 cup of each type so that they don't end up over-sweet. Some people dug this, others thought it was too sweet or too salty. Personally, I thought it was a bit too sweet.

2. Oatmeal Chocolate Peanut Butter Pecan

• 1/2 cup miniature peanut butter cups (like, the really small ones)
• 1/2 cup toasted pecans (optionally)
• 1/5 cup semi-sweet chocolate chips
• 1 cup rolled oats

This is the recipe I ended up making for the competition. It's solid. Three or four distinct layers of flavor.

3. Orange Oatmeal Chocolate Pecan

• 1 cup rolled oats
• 1/2 tsp orange zest
• 1/2 cup semi sweet chocolate chips
• 1/2 cup toasted pecans

Really good. Gary said they tasted like apple jacks. I think he's crazy.

4. Bacon Chocolate Chip

• 1/2 cup candied bacon (diced)
• 1/2 cup chocolate chips
• optionally, maple cinnamon glaze:
  • 1 cup powdered sugar
  • 1/2 tbsp maple extract
  • 1/2 tsp vanilla extract
  • 1/2 tsp cinnamon (or to taste)
  • 1/2 tbsp water, or however enough you need for a good consistency

Everyone was shocked at how good these were. They were Rhonda's favorite. Gary and I felt confused about them (there's pork in this cookie!?). To make the candied bacon, take 5 strips of good thick-cut bacon and put them on a sheet pan covered with parchment paper. Sprinkle each piece with about a 1/2 tbsp of brown sugar. Bake at 350 for 10 minutes. Flip them, making sure to coat in the fat/sugar goodness. Bake for 10 more minutes. Then cool (on a fancy schmancy rack, if you're an asshat), and chop up.

5. Mexican Chocolate

• 1/2 tbsp cocoa powder
• 1/8 tsp cayenne
• 1/2 tsp ginger
• 1/2 tsp cinnamon
• 1/2 cup semi-sweet chocolate chips
• 1/2 cup coarsely chopped cashews

These are really solid. They were Todd's favorite, and maybe my favorite too, depending on my mood.

After adding your choice of accouterments, you'll want to throw the dough in the fridge for the better part of an hour or two. Roll them into balls the size of golfballs (or smaller, if you hate life) Preheat the oven to 350 and bake them for 9 minutes. Add a minute or two or three if they need it. They're done when the interface between the sheet-pan and the cookie is just turning light brown. Let them cool for about 1 min or 2 on the sheet pan and then transfer them elsewhere to cool the rest of the way. They'll darken as they cool/finish-cooking. They should look underdone when they come out of the oven.

Link | Comments

Posted By Caleb Phillips

The Summer of...

2009.09.09 00:04:58

Listening to: Gregory Alan Isakov

From the Life Department

Since I last wrote, I've been on a series of adventures taking me to the far east, europe, the oregon high desert, and a couple places in between. Really, it's too much to write up which is why I've been neglecting to do it.

In June, I went to South Korea to attend the WiOpt'09 conference in Seoul where I presented one paper, and supported my friend Eric in presenting two more (where I was a secondary author). On the way, I stopped for 4 days in Tokyo and rendezvoused with my long-time friend Jake. After the conference in Seoul, Eric and I took some time to travel around Korea. After returning to Colorado, I had about 3 days to collect myself and pack before driving up to Portland with my cousin James who was moving back there after spending more than a year in Boulder, during most of which he lived with me. A couple days in Portland to see friends, then off with Ryan and Gus (and for some of it, Steve) for hiking in the Wallowas, climbing at Smith Rocks, my family reunion "Salmon Bake" at the Beach, and camping in the Cascades (all in all, consuming the majority of July). A couple days in Portland provided me time to see some friends and family and climb Mt. Adams. Then, back to Colorado, again for just a couple days - enough to remember how long I'd been traveling and how it wasn't over yet. Then, off to eastern Spain to attend a conference in Barcelona and do some solo traveling around Catalunya. At the end of August, I made it back to Boulder just in time to dive full swing into classes and research. Life still hasn't calmed down completely and settled into a predicable rhythm, but it's getting there.

Scanning my memory, here are a handful of moments that stick out:

• A picnic in the large garden in Shinjuku, Tokyo
• Walking the streets of Tokyo with Jake, drinking beer, and chatting as if no time had passed
• Nervously giving my talk at WiOpt
• Eating Korean food and drinking Soju with Eric until I felt like I could die, and eating more anyway
• Diving into the Ocean after a run around the coast of the island of Ulleungdo, Korea.
• Somewhere in Wyoming, eating cookies Becky made, waiting with James for the overheated car to cool down.
• Waking Gus and Ryan, in the Bus, somewhere in the Gorge
• Lying under a Empress tree, drinking a strong beer with Esther, shortly after crashing her bike (riding dutch) in the middle of Division street.
• Post-hike napping on the lawn at the Terminal Gravity brewery with Kelli, Steve, Gus, and Ryan.
• Sweating, climbing hard, being scared, loving. it.
• Mid-afternoon naps in the bus followed by a mason jar filled with strong coffee.
• Long mostly-pointless relationship discussions with good friends, okay whiskey, and terrible wine.
• Being confused and bit scared somewhere on the west face of the Monkey.
• Being drunk and a bit lost in Bend.
• The water rushing to meet me from the end of a zipline over Lake Billy.
• Cranking the roof of "Bad Moon Rising" and screaming at the chains
• Pulling 30 lbs of perfectly cooked pork out of a steaming underground Imu with Steve.
• Getting served Cherry Pie and coffee by the bell of Cultis Lake with Jim
• Laying shirtless and buzzed on a flat rock on the shore of Waldo lake reading "Sometimes a Great Notion" thankful to have a respite from the mosquitos.
• The sick and helpless feeling of listening to my friend try break his hand.
• Choosing the worst spot to sleep, ever.
• Flying around Portland on a 49cc scooter, honking, and grinning ear to ear.
• Trying to stop a slide in an icy chute on Adams. Leaving some knuckle flesh and red snow behind for my trouble.
• Night climbing on Flagstaff with Hana - sending a two year project. And, subsequently, spraining my ankle.
• Making new friends, dancing all night, watching the sun rise over the Mediterranean, sleeping on park benches, and diving into the Sea.
• Running the old city wall in Girona
• Bouldering on the Coasta Brava with new friends.
• Drinking wine from the bottle, listening to hip-hop in the street in Gracia or walking the beach at night in Barcelonetta.
• Standing on the summit of Mont Serrat, trying to conjure enough Spanish to tell folks there that they'd be struck by lightning if they didn't descend...damn soon.

All the photos are on Flickr, excepting a couple rolls from Spain which are still being processed:

• Japan
• Korea
• Spain
• Oregon

Since coming home, I've done alot of catchup work on my research and schoolwork. I've done alot of work on my bike, and even acquired a new road bike for longer rides (a 2003 Fuji Roubiax Pro). This last weekend, I went to "Honeyfest" with Becky where aside from harvesting honey, there was a good sampling of bike riding, slacklining, glutteonous eating and drinking, skeet-shooting, ATV-cruising, midnight swimming, and fire-sitting. Damn near ideal weekend, really.

Well, that's it for now. Tonight I start dance classes(!?) and have some martial arts training and climbing. I'm doing a bunch of bike rides this month and it's prime time to bag some 14-ers. Then cooking, canning, and work. Lots of work.

Link | Comments

Posted By Caleb Phillips

Holy Parallelism, Batman!

2009.06.04 06:26:57

Listening to: The Avett Brothers

From the geekery Department

So, without going into great detail, let's just say that I was running an algorithm to compute some stuff which is related to my research. It has been running for about a month now and is only about half way done. The machine it is running on is exceptionally big and fast and whatnot, but this makes little difference. I first wrote the algorithm some time in 2007 or thereabouts. At that time, I ran it on much less data and it took about a week using three powerful machines. A week was not great, but I could deal with that. It was alot of data.

Today, I decided to take a whack at making it faster, since two months of compute time for something that might need to run every so often is clearly pretty lame. The first thing I did was rewrite the code in C. It was written in Matlab before. C is fast. Matlab is slow. Oh, so very slow. C is a bit harder to "use", but not much really. This rewrite and subsequent debugging took the better part of the day. Maybe 6 hours of work, give or take.

Then, I set to work on parallelizing it. That took, maybe another 2-4 hours. Since really, it parallelized up quite nicely into two major parallelizable tasks which must themselves be executed serially. I setup the parallel version to divide work (mostly) evenly among 100 processors on a 16 node cluster we have at the lab here, and then waited.

So, how long did the new version take? It took 2 minutes and 40 seconds to run. Holy hell! I mean, you have to take into account the 10-12 hours I spent today in working on optimizing and parallelizing it, but damn - why have I been waiting a month for these results? This is pretty amazing to me. At this very moment I have a paper sitting on top of my to-read stack which was published in 1989. When that paper was published, doing the amount of computation I just did in three minutes would have been completely infeasible. Yeah, I know, Moore's law and all that. It's not a new observation. Still, it blows me away how rapidly the area I work in can change, especially with regard to capacity. Also, while I know that people have been harping on the importance of parallelism as a computational paradigm for years now, it really hits home when I can decrease the runtime of a complex algorithm by 28,000 times in just a day's work. Crazy.

Link | Comments

Posted By Caleb Phillips